Hoi An is a charming and photogenic town in central Vietnam which is known for its historic buildings, lanterns, and tailoring industry.
My trip to Hoi An was partially inspired by Midnight Blue Elephant’s delectable food photos from her trip.
But, because I hate shopping, I was also drawn there by the idea of getting clothes and shoes custom-made.
It’s also obscenely pretty. And near a beach. And has a great reputation for food. What’s not to like?
My trip took place in Feb 2020, as rumbling of a certain coronavirus were increasing in pitch and frequency. Thailand and Vietnam had already closed their borders with China. February is usually peak season in this part of the world so it more quiet and relaxed than it usually would.
As quiet and relaxed as any major spot in Vietnam ever will. The traffic here is INSANE. I knew this before I went, and yet I did not expect it to bother me. I’ve visited plenty of places with potty traffic. but Vietnam really takes the biscuit.
If I can offer you one tip for Vietnam it’s to book somewhere where you won’t have to cross the craziest of streets every day.
I didn’t really know which part of town I wanted to stay in so I decided to split it up. First up was Tribee Ede hostel. It’s located on a street that’s full of hostels and backpacker places. Tribee themselves have 4 or 5 spread across town. If you want to mingle then it’s probably a good spot. I’ve been spoiled by flashpacker hostels so it didn’t wow me but it was fine. However the walk into the main part of town involved several busy streets and I just found it really draining.
Then I managed to find a basic homestay right on the edge of the old town (there’s very little accommodation in the old town itself). The family were sweet but it turns out my cranky back is no match for thin mattresses – a recurring problem on this trip. It became even less comfortable in a deluge of heavy rain.
I lasted two nights and then fled to a resort hotel called Acacia on the other side of town. On the map it looked too far away from the main part of town to be an appealing option but a good deal lured me in.
And actually I loved it – it’s located on one of the islands in the river. There are a few anonymous-looking hotels but overall it feels less touristy and less busy than the streets north of the old town. And it’s a pretty short walk over a bridge. Maybe I’m just too old for the hostel thing now.
Acacia isn’t a fancy hotel but it had a breakfast buffet, my room was right next to the pool and the bar, and the mattress was SO comfortable.
Hoi An sits at the edge of a river delta with lots of islands and channels. It’s a few miles upstream from the sea and was once an important trading city hence the elegant buildings everywhere.
These days the old buildings are mostly home to shops. I would say that 2 out of 3 are shopfronts for tailors or otherwise selling, with the remaining third selling souvenirs. There are many picturesque restaurants and cafes too, as well as a market and street food near the river.
The river is also where you’ll find Hoi An’s most romantic attraction – the latern-lit boat trips which are a favourite with camera-wielding tourists. It’s quite a spectacle in the evening and I loved to sit with a bowl of noodles in the evening and watch the scene unfold.
The wooden boats are painted in bright colours with eyes which remind me of the Maltese luzzu boats.
As usual, I came armed with a huge to-do list and in the end did very little. It’s so photogenic that I spent my days wandering around with my camera, dipping in and out of a few heritage attractions like the restored merchant houses which are open to the public. Or else sipping coffee at one of the towns many amazing cafes. My favourite was The Espresso Station just north of the old town.
Other favourite spots in town included Mot Hoi An, a dinky little cafe serving street food and amazing iced tea.
Just opposite Mot is the Reaching Out Teahouse, a beautiful tearoom and part of a social enterprise which supports employment for people with disabilities. The biscuits are really good. You can also buy some amazing artisan products and watch craftsmen work in their store (separate building).
It struck me how many social enterprises there are in Vietnam – it’s wonderful to visit places like this but it’s also a sign of a lack of government support for many parts of society.
I also recommend dropping in at STREETS for dinner and taking a coffee tour and tasting with ThanhUyen Roastery.
Beach-bum that I am, I did spent a few days hanging out at An Bang, Hoi An’s most popular beach outpost.
The coast near Hoi An is full of wide sand beaches and is a popular resort area. An Bang isn’t too resorty, it’s a pleasant enough little place with a few streets of guesthouses and amenities, and cafe-bars behind the beach.
However it decided to blow a hooley when I was there which rather dampened the appeal of the beach somewhat. It’s the kind of place that people visit for the day or weekend. Any longer and they choose one of the nearby resort hotels.
It’s such a short drive from Hoi An that I’m not convinced it’s worth staying in An Bang unless you intend to be in the area long-term (although some of the guesthouses are really cute).
The other trip I managed was to My Son Sanctuary – a site of ruined Cham temples. It was well worth the day trip and fascinating to learn about a kingdom that I had literally never heard of before, but it was also excruciatingly hot that day so all I could do was think about getting back to my hotel.
And what of the custom-made clothes and shoes? Well, I tried. It’s overwhelming! I walked around and around trying to find a tailor and shoemaker I was happy with. The cheapest places are outside the old town, and there are several stores with aggressive touts as you walk around. Each display examples outside and also have books of designs that you can browse. You’re also welcome to bring in designs for them to copy.
I eventually went to Yaly for two pairs of sandals. Yaly are one of the most well-known and respected brands in town and they have tailors and shoemakers. They offer unlimited adjustments until you’re happy with your purchase, or else you don’t have to pay.
In the end I only paid for one pair of shoes as the other just weren’t big enough, despite several changes over 3 days. My feet are considerably bigger and wider than the average Asian foot, and no amount of stretching was going to result in a comfortable shoe!
I would say that getting clothes and shoes made here is worth it if you’re just getting a souvenir and sticking to the kinds of designs that they know well. Allow plenty of time for adjustments. Choose something from the book, don’t go too off-piste. It’s really easy for things to get lost in translation. Most of the clothes on show are tailored dresses and suits.
Eventually I realised that my own style (more loose and minimalist) and preferred fabrics would not translate well to this kind of operation and would end up being more expensive than similar items bought in store.
Chasing around looking for tailors meant I ended up not taking a cooking classes which was a major fail. There are so many on offer. A lot of the city’s food is grown in the fields surrounding the city so there are opportunities to visit farms and producers as well as take market tours.
If you’re looking for more information on Hoi An I recommend the extensive booklet that you can find on the Hub Hoi Ann website.